Miso-glazed salmon with teriyaki glaze, roasted broccolini and maitake, and a side salad

Pull the pin bones from the top side of the fillet with tweezers, pulling in the direction the bones face to damage the flesh as little as possible.

Whisk the miso, sake, soy sauce, brown sugar and oil together; taste for a balance of salty and sweet.

Coat the salmon on every side in the marinade; cook immediately or marinate on a tray up to a couple of days.

Preheat the pizza oven on high, about 45 minutes.

Lift the salmon onto a foil-lined tray and put it in; lower the heat to moderate so a thick piece does not brown too fast. Under a broiler an average supermarket piece takes about five minutes, a thick one about 10.

Toss broccolini and maitake mushrooms with extra virgin olive oil, salt and pepper and cook them in the same oven; dress a salad of baby arugula, cherry tomatoes, red onion and cucumber with salt, pepper and a sesame dressing.

If an edge threatens to burn, lift the foil to shield it; cook until browned to taste with a rare center.

Rest the salmon, tented very gently with foil, while the vegetables finish.

Teriyaki glaze (made ahead): equal parts by volume of sugar, soy sauce, sake and mirin, reduced in a pan until syrupy, about one and a half cups each reduced to a pint; ginger and garlic scraps are added to the container.

Lift the salmon off the skin by wedging the spatula tip between skin and flesh; plate with the vegetables.

Drizzle the salmon, mushrooms and broccolini with the teriyaki glaze and finish with black sesame seeds.

Variation: on a clean preheated grill, cook over moderate heat, flip carefully and cook the other side.