Mochi ice cream

Bring the heavy cream, milk, sugar and salt to a bare simmer, whisking occasionally until the sugar and salt dissolve.

Steady the bowl of egg yolks on a moistened kitchen towel.

Ladle the hot mixture into the yolks a few drops at a time while whisking constantly; after two or three ladlefuls pour it in, until about a third has gone in.

Whisk the yolks back into the pot and cook over medium-low, whisking constantly, until 171F or it coats the back of a spoon; take off the heat.

Flavor each batch: whisk in matcha until dissolved, or ube extract, or black sesame paste.

Cover in an airtight container and chill at least four hours, up to overnight.

Pass the chilled custard through a fine mesh sieve.

Churn about 20 minutes until the motor strains and it looks like very thick soft serve; add whole toasted black sesame seeds to the sesame batch.

Freeze in an airtight container another four hours, up to overnight, until firm but not rock hard.

Scoop round-topped, flat-bottomed mounds into muffin cups and return to the freezer; dip the scoop in hot water if the ice cream is too hard.

Whisk the mochiko and sugar in a microwave-safe bowl, then whisk in the water until smooth.

Cover with plastic wrap and microwave on full power one minute; mix with a wetted rubber spatula, re-cover and repeat, three rounds in all, until a semi-translucent goo.

Turn the hot dough onto parchment covered in sifted potato starch, coat the pin and dough with more starch and roll to about a 12 by 16 inch rectangle.

Lift onto a rimmed baking sheet and refrigerate about 30 minutes until firm.

Cut rounds with a biscuit cutter and brush off as much starch as possible.

Set an ice cream mound rounded side down in each round, fold the dough up around it and pinch closed.

Wrap each in plastic wrap rounded side down and twist tight to compress the shell.

Return to the muffin tin rounded side up and freeze at least an hour.