Moo hong, soy-braised pork belly

Cut the pork belly into chunks about two inches; they shrink a lot, so cut them at least twice the finished size.

Toss with soy sauce and dark soy sauce; turn meat side down and marinate 30 minutes up to overnight (optional), turning halfway if remembered.

Grind black peppercorns finely, add garlic and short pieces of cilantro stem, and pound to a coarse paste (sam klu) until no large pieces of garlic remain.

Heat a little oil in the pot and saute the paste on medium-low until slightly golden.

Deglaze with unsalted chicken or pork stock, scraping the bottom; add palm sugar.

Add the pork and all the marinade, skin turned sideways to submerge; the liquid should come just below or at the level of the pork, topped up with a touch of water if needed.

Bring to a gentle simmer, cover loosely and simmer the first hour.

Flip the pieces, then braise uncovered on low another hour to hour and a half to reduce to a thick, rich sauce, stirring once or twice and adding a splash of water if it dries.

In the last 30 to 45 minutes stay nearby so it does not boil dry, basting or flipping the pork so the exposed parts stay moist.

Test the thickest piece with a fork: it should go in with no resistance.

Tilt the pot and skim off the fat layer with a thin ladle until skimming takes sauce with it (or chill and lift off the solid fat).

The sauce should come about halfway up the pork; taste: salty first, sweet second, lots of pepper; add water if too salty, or reduce further if too weak.

Serve with jasmine rice and vegetables.