Mulligatawny soup

Heat butter and oil over medium-high in a soup pot. Brown boneless skinless chicken thighs, seasoning generously with salt, 4 to 5 minutes per side.

Mix the spice blend: curry powder, garam masala, ground cumin, black pepper, dried mustard, coriander and cayenne.

Move the browned chicken to a plate to cool, then chop it. Lower the heat to medium.

Cook the spice blend in the fat, stirring, about 30 seconds.

Add minced garlic and chopped fresh ginger and cook, stirring, about a minute.

Add diced onions, celery and carrots with a big pinch of salt and cook 3 to 4 minutes, until the onions turn translucent; the salt draws out moisture that keeps the spices and garlic from burning.

Stir in a little tomato paste and cook about 3 more minutes to cook out its raw flavour.

Add cubed potatoes, diced fresh tomato and two peeled, diced Granny Smith apples (cut off the core in four cuts, then into quarter-inch pieces).

Add red lentils, one bay leaf and about a teaspoon of tamarind paste, then six cups of broth.

Stir, raise the heat to high to bring to a simmer, and stir in coconut cream if using.

Lower to a low, steady simmer; do not skim the foam, it disappears. Simmer about half an hour before adding the chicken.

Add the chopped chicken and its accumulated juices; simmer, stirring occasionally, another 20 to 30 minutes (25 here) until the vegetables are cooked and the lentils have thickened the soup.

Taste and adjust the salt.

Ladle into warm bowls and garnish with a spoon of yogurt, cilantro leaves, sliced scallions and Aleppo pepper.