Mung bean jelly noodle salad (liang fen)

Heat about two-thirds of the water to almost a simmer. Dissolve the mung bean starch in the rest of the water, cold; starch added straight to hot liquid makes lumps.

When bubbles form at the bottom of the pot, stir the starch mixture again and pour it in gradually while stirring.

Keep stirring without stopping: blobs of clear gel appear, the whole thing sets into a thick white paste, then gradually turns translucent. It is done when it is evenly translucent, no longer changing, and bubbling when stirring stops.

Pour into a rectangular heat-resistant mould, smooth the top and cool at room temperature until it sets to a solid jelly.

Refrigerate a couple of hours to firm up so it can be grated; it turns cloudy white when fully chilled. Unmould; some weeping water is normal.

Grate the block into noodles with a grater, a box grater, or cut by hand with a knife.

Blanch the noodles in boiling water a few seconds until they turn translucent and bouncy again; drain and dunk in cold tap water or rinse under running water.

Dressing: grate or mince a clove of garlic into a mixing bowl, add soy sauce, rice vinegar, sugar and toasted sesame oil, and stir until the sugar dissolves.

Dab the noodles dry on a towel and plate them in neat bundles; add julienned cucumber and carrots.

Spoon the dressing over; top with chili oil or chili crisp, a little green onion and chopped peanuts. Mix everything together to eat.