Mushroom ragu with potato gnocchi cooked in the sauce

Cover the dried mushrooms with boiling water and stir so everything soaks and sinks; leave to soften.

Peel the potato, chop into small pieces and boil until soft.

Pull or shred the fresh mushrooms into big pieces, since they shrink, or chop them.

Cook the mushrooms with a little water in the pan until they release their own water; when the pan is dry, add olive oil and fry until well browned. Season lightly.

Finely chop the carrot, celery and shallots.

Add the vegetables with more oil and let their water deglaze the mushroom fond; cook until softened.

Stir in a big squeeze of tomato paste and fry about a minute until rust-coloured.

Before it burns, add wine and deglaze; boil to reduce.

Pour the potato boiling water into the ragu; set the potato chunks aside to cool.

Lift out the soaked dried mushrooms, chop finely and add; pour in the steeping liquid, holding back the last bit with any sand.

Chop the tomatoes fine and add with their juice. Stir the sauce often and add water as needed so it does not stick.

Mash the cooled potato over a wide area, season with garlic powder, and knead in flour, roughly an equal volume, until smooth and stretchy enough to roll into a rope.

Halve the dough, roll into a rough snake, cut into small pieces and keep them separate.

Taste the ragu; season with salt, a little soy sauce, a lot of pepper and a splash of vinegar.

Drop the gnocchi into the sauce a few at a time, add a little more water, stir once they are surrounded by sauce, and simmer a few minutes until plump, firm and pillowy.

Make a gremolata by chopping a clove of garlic, lemon zest and sage into each other.

Serve in bowls and sprinkle the gremolata on top while the food is still very hot.