Neapolitan pizza

Measure 450 grams of 73 to 76 F water into a medium bowl on a digital scale.

Stir in the yeast and salt until relatively dissolved.

Add the double zero flour and stir with a sturdy spoon to a shaggy ball.

Finish with a wet hand, claw-gripping about 30 seconds until homogenous with no dry clumps. Do not develop gluten aggressively this early.

Lid on, rest 30 minutes, then pull and fold the dough over itself five or six times and round it into a ball.

Rest another 30 minutes and repeat the folds; the dough should no longer be sticky.

Ferment at room temperature for 10 hours -- mix at night, fold at 30 and 60 minutes, then sleep.

Flip out onto a lightly floured surface and cut into four even pieces of about 275 grams.

Degas each piece by slapping it, fold in both sides, turn 90 degrees, fold again, flip onto the seams and tuck into a tight ball; pop any surface bubbles.

Move the balls to a pan sprayed plastic lid and chill lid off for five to 10 minutes so they cool fast and do not overproof, then cover.

Pull the dough one hour before you want pizza; it keeps three days in the fridge but is best the evening of the day you divided it.

Run the pizza oven at full gas for about 60 minutes to burn it clean and charge the stones, then dial it back to about 850 F air and 900 F floor.

For the sauce, spin the crushed tomatoes with seven grams of salt for about 30 seconds with an immersion blender, leaving it relatively coarse.

Flour the ball, loosen it with a dough scraper, drop it floured side down, dust the other side and slap it gently to degas; pinch out any big bubbles.

Press outwards from the middle with the pads of the fingers to an eight or nine inch circle with a half to one inch outer crust.

Stretch: hold with the right hand, pull out to resistance with the left, flip it over the wrist and turn 45 degrees; repeat to 10 or 11 inches.

Flour the perforated loading peel aggressively and lay the crust down; shimmy to check it is loose.

Ladle on about 70 grams of sauce and spread it further out than usual, since the tomato protects the crust from burning.

Add about 10 thumb-sized pieces of buffalo mozzarella, then the basil, a little olive oil on the basil, and a pinch of flaky salt from height.

Shimmy again, stretch to 12 inches, and load with a quick shove and a pull back at an angle.

Turn the flame up for acute top heat; after about 20 seconds start quarter-turning the pizza with the turning peel so no side sits in the hottest spot.

Bake about 90 seconds total, checking the bottom.

Rest on a wire rack about a minute so it cools by about 100 degrees and does not steam or slop.