Nem nuong tortilla skewers with nuoc cham

Cut up the pork shoulder, keeping as much fat as wanted; freeze about 20 minutes to firm up, not freeze.

Put the pork into a processor with garlic, a couple tablespoons of fish sauce, the same of brown sugar, a decent amount of black pepper, a little baking powder and some ice cubes.

Process to a paste that looks like 'mushed up brains', the traditional pounded-pork texture; move to a bowl.

Stack the tortillas and trim them square to an even size; keep the trimmings for tortilla chips.

Spread a thin layer of the pork on a tortilla, top with another tortilla, press, and repeat until out of layers, finishing with pork.

Cut the stack into long rectangles, lay them on their sides, thread with wooden skewers and cut between them into skewers.

Set the skewers on a baking sheet and clean up the edges.

Grill on a sprayed grill, turning all four sides and moving pieces off hot spots; wait for color before using tongs.

Warm a little honey and brush it on near the end for gloss, sheen and a touch of sweetness.

Take the skewers off and let them rest a bit.

Mix the nuoc cham: fish sauce, lime juice, some sugar, garlic, a little hot water and a little red chili.

Serve the skewers with the dipping sauce.

Variation: skip the tortillas and grill the pork mixture as little patties.