New England lobster roll

Put the live lobsters in the freezer 15 minutes to numb them.

Fill a large pot three quarters with water, add salt and the juice and halves of two lemons, lid on, and bring to about 185F.

Kill each lobster by driving the knife tip into the ridgeline of the carapace and levering forward through the head.

Poach the lobsters gently at 185F for eight to nine minutes, rather than hard boiling, which makes the meat rubbery.

Check the deepest part of the tail for about 150F, then rest on a wire rack about 15 minutes to cool and carry over.

For tails instead: poach four four-ounce tails in salty 185F water for four minutes each, then chill them in an ice bath to stop carryover.

Twist the tail from the body and twist off the claws; rinse off the roe.

Cut down the inside and outside of the tail shell with scissors and slip the shell off; crack the claws and knuckles and pull the meat out whole.

Pick up the potato roll dough after mixing and 90 minutes of proofing, flour it, flip it out and degas aggressively.

Divide into ten 115 g pieces, pre-shape into loose rounds and rest ten minutes under a tea towel.

Degas each round into a rough rectangle, fold the top over and press down four to five times to build tension, then roll out with fingertips and thumbs to a tapered shape about six inches long.

Space the shaped buns on a tray, cover and proof 60 to 90 minutes until doubled and springy.

Brush with egg wash and bake at 400F for 15 to 17 minutes, spritzing the oven with 12 to 15 squirts of water at the start and turning the tray 90 degrees halfway.

Brush the baked buns with melted butter and cool.

Cut the tail meat down its natural seam and then across into large rustic chunks; do the same with the claw meat.

Dress the meat with mayonnaise, minced chives, salt, cracked black pepper, lemon zest and lemon juice, stirring gently with a sturdy spoon.

Cut a bun top down rather than through the side, butter both cut faces and toast in a medium hot nonstick pan about a minute a side under downward pressure.

Shingle butter leaf lettuce into the bun, fill with about 175 g of lobster salad, and finish with cracked black pepper and minced chives.