New York style bagels

Pulse the bread flour, vital wheat gluten and yeast together.

Add nine ounces of the liquid and mix, then rest 10 minutes for the autolyse.

Add the salt and run the machine about 90 seconds.

Knead by hand about a minute to smooth the dough out.

Divide and weigh into pieces of about three and a quarter to three and a half ounces.

Roll each into a ball using the tackiness of the dough against the table, without pressing down.

Cover and rest 15 minutes to relax the gluten.

Press each ball out to roughly five inches, fold and pull back, stretching underneath into a tight roll about eight to nine inches long.

Twist the rope, wrap it around the hand and pinch the ends together; lay on a sheet pan lined with cornmeal.

Alternative: punch a hole through a ball instead of rolling, which gives a rounder, poppier bagel and a worse texture.

Rest one hour at room temperature to start fermentation, then refrigerate overnight for a slow cold ferment.

Add sugar and baking soda to boiling water and boil four bagels at a time, 20 seconds a side, flipping halfway.

Lift onto a wire rack, cornmeal side down.

Pour half a cup of boiling water into the bottom of the oven for steam and bake.