New York style pizza

Combine the bread flour, sugar, dry yeast and kosher salt and whisk to incorporate evenly.

Add the water and light olive oil.

Knead on a dough hook for seven to ten minutes for solid gluten development.

Oil the proofing containers, put the dough in, cover loosely with plastic wrap and cold ferment in the fridge for three days.

variation: for the fancy dough, use Italian pizza flour, Italian yeast, salt and four grams of diastatic malt powder in place of the sugar, plus water and extra virgin olive oil, and knead the same way.

Subdivide and shape the cold dough and proof about an hour and a half, longer than usual because it has to come up to room temperature first.

Strain the juices out of the San Marzano tomatoes and puree them without any oil, which would emulsify and lighten the colour.

Cook the pureed tomatoes gently with the dried garlic, onion powder and oregano for about half an hour to cook off the raw tomato flavour and drive off moisture.

Stir in the reserved half cup of fresh tomatoes and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.

Press the dough; it is properly proofed when it leaves a dimple that springs back slowly.

Roll the dough out with a rolling pin to knock out the big air bubbles, working the outside to get it paper thin and as large as possible.

Sauce the pie, add the low moisture mozzarella and launch it off the peel.

Bake, rotating constantly; it is a matter of seconds either way. Look for dots of colour on the bottom rather than a flat char.

Shave Parmigiano Reggiano over the top at the end.

Cut into eight slices.