New York style pizza

Stir 10 g of instant yeast into 575 g of water at 68 to 70 F to dissolve it.

Add the olive oil, sugar and salt, then the all-purpose and bread flours, and stir with a sturdy spoon to a shaggy mess.

With a wet hand, use a claw grip to squish out the drier lumps for about two minutes, then knead about a minute to start developing gluten.

Check the dough temperature; aim for 76 to 78 F.

Cover and ferment 20 minutes.

Stretch and fold: pull the dough out until it meets tension or starts to tear and fold it back over, four or five times, then flip it and round and tuck it into a ball.

Cover and rest 20 more minutes, then repeat the stretch and fold.

Cover and let it relax about 15 more minutes, 60 minutes of fermentation in all.

Turn out onto a lightly dusted cutting board and divide into four 385 gram pieces.

Shape each piece by folding the wings over, turning 90 degrees, folding again, flipping onto the folds and rolling it loosely into a ball, without building as much tension as for a loaf.

Move the balls two by two onto parchment lined, oiled half sheet trays, spray them with olive oil and cover with sheet tray lids so they can be stacked.

Cold ferment in the fridge for at least 24 hours.

Pull the doughs 45 minutes before baking and let them come to room temperature.

Heat the oven to its highest setting, 550 F, with one pizza steel on the bottom rack and a second six to eight inches above it.

Grate 225 g each of part skim and full fat mozzarella by hand.

Stir 15 g of sugar and 8 g of salt into the can of crushed tomatoes until dissolved.

Blend about half the tomatoes smooth with an immersion blender and recombine, so the sauce has both coarse chunks and puree.

Flour the top of a dough ball, drop it skin side down, flour the inside and pat it to bring up and degas the big bubbles.

Press around the outside with the fingertips to set a crust about an inch tall and press the middle flat to about eight inches, flour it, flip it and press to about ten inches.

Stretch by pinning the dough with one hand and pulling the crust over the opposite wrist until it is a 12 to 13 inch round.

Lay the dough on a pizza peel dusted liberally with semolina flour.

Push one heaping four ounce ladle of sauce, about five ounces, out to the edges with the bottom of the ladle.

Add two big grips of cheese, going lighter than usual.

Stretch the dressed pizza out further with the fingertips, from 12 inches to 14 plus, to the edges of the peel and beyond.

Sprinkle a little Maldon flake salt on top and patch any bare spots with more cheese.

Shimmy the pizza off the peel onto the steel at the back of the 550 F oven.

Bake about six to seven minutes total, turning it 180 degrees with a turning peel after three minutes and closing the oven fast.

Pull the pizza onto a wire rack so the crust does not steam from underneath.

To refire a slice, load it on parchment onto the pizza steel for 90 to 120 seconds until the bottom re-crisps and the cheese remelts.