New York style pizza

Mix bread flour, a little sugar and instant yeast with the dough hook; add lukewarm water.

As it starts to come together, sprinkle in coarse kosher salt.

Once the flour is incorporated, knead on about medium for four to five minutes.

For same-day pizza, cover and let rise two to three hours until doubled. For later, skip the rise, divide and refrigerate in oiled containers for up to two or three days.

Divide the risen dough into four (about 10 to 11 ounces each), pinch the bottoms into balls and put into oiled pint containers; oil the lids and brush the tops with oil.

Refrigerate about an hour and a half (one to two hours ideal) for elasticity, then rest at room temperature 30 minutes.

Preheat the oven with a pizza steel on the top rack at 550F for at least an hour, up to an hour and a half.

No-cook sauce: thick tomato puree, a little grated garlic, a couple teaspoons of sugar for balance, a good pinch of salt, a good drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and oregano crushed between the fingers; stir.

Grate equal parts whole milk and part skim mozzarella on a box grater.

Dust the surface; flatten the dough with the fingertips, keeping a thin border, then stretch with fists.

Move to a cornmeal-dusted peel and stretch and rotate to about 12 inches.

Ladle on the sauce, add plenty of cheese, and an optional drizzle of olive oil.

Bake on the steel on the top rack 7 to 9 minutes; use convection if available.

Transfer to a pizza pan and cool about a minute before slicing.