No-onion chicken curry with a soaked seed spice blend

Cover coriander seeds, cumin seeds, mustard seeds, poppy seeds and dry red chili with hot water and soak about an hour or two.

Drain through a fine-mesh strainer so the poppy seeds are not lost.

Blend the seeds with water to a fine paste in a blender jar.

Blend garlic and ginger with a little water to a smooth paste.

Mix the bone-in chicken with the ginger garlic paste, turmeric powder, plain yogurt and a little oil; marinate about an hour if there is time.

Prepare potatoes (optional) and chop a large tomato.

Heat oil in a pan over medium-high heat; add the bay leaf, cinnamon stick and green cardamoms.

Reduce the heat to low and add the chicken with its marinade; stir a few minutes on low so the yogurt does not curdle, then raise to medium-high.

Keep stirring on medium-high until the water the chicken releases has gone and the oil leaves the sides.

Add Kashmiri red chili powder and the spice paste; stir on medium-high a few minutes until the raw smell becomes a toasted smell.

Add the chopped tomatoes and stir until softened; add salt and the potatoes and stir to mix; add sugar if using.

Rinse the blender jar with about a cup of water and add it, then one more cup of warm water.

Bring to a boil, cover and cook on low about 20 minutes, stirring from time to time; add warm water if the gravy dries up.

Check the chicken is soft; taste and adjust the seasoning.

Heat ghee in a small pan on medium-high, take it off the heat and add garam masala powder (off heat so it does not burn); add to the curry.

Add a little lemon juice, cover on low about two minutes, then add chopped coriander leaves.