No-skewer chicken satay with peanut sauce

Grind coriander seeds, cumin seeds and white peppercorns to a powder in a mortar and pestle.

Add brown sugar, salt, turmeric, cinnamon, tamarind and coconut milk; transfer to a mixing bowl.

Remove the tenderloin from each breast as its own piece; slice the breast diagonally against the grain.

Variation: for thighs, trim the chunky piece, dangling bits and large fat; leave whole or halve lengthwise.

Mix the chicken into the marinade; marinate a couple of hours ahead if possible, or while making the sauce.

Grind roasted peanuts in a food processor or mortar until mealy, not to a butter.

Boil about a third of a cup of coconut milk in a pot, add red curry paste and stir frequently about 3 minutes until very thick and the oil separates.

Add the remaining coconut milk, the peanuts, tamarind and palm sugar; simmer, stirring frequently, until thickened to a dip consistency, about 5 minutes.

Taste, then season with fish sauce.

Grill on a grill preheated on high with the lid open, no skewers, a few minutes per side for breast; close the lid for thighs or to hurry.

Serve with a quick cucumber pickle or other tart, crunchy side, and the peanut sauce.