Nonna's lasagna with tiny meatballs

Soak plain breadcrumbs in a little milk to rehydrate them; the milk also tenderizes the meat.

Combine ground beef with the soaked crumbs, plenty of parmigiano reggiano, finely chopped garlic and parsley, salt, pepper, eggs and a good grating of parm; mix thoroughly by hand.

Rub a little olive oil on a plate so the meatballs do not stick. Roll half the mixture into very small meatballs, about half a teaspoon each.

Start with a cold pan and a good amount of olive oil; add the meatballs in two batches, coating them in the oil so they do not stick, and fry until crisp and colored. Lower the heat a little. Remove the meatballs.

Variation: roll the other half into regular meatballs on an oiled plate, cover with plastic wrap and flash freeze, then bag; defrost, sear and cook in sauce when wanted.

Saute the finely chopped onion in the remaining oil and browned bits with a pinch of salt to soften.

Add dry red wine and let it bubble about a minute (not to reduce).

Add tomato puree, a few basil leaves and the meatballs. Bring to a boil, partially cover, turn the heat to low and simmer two hours. Adjust salt.

Boil ridged lasagna noodles until pliable but not cooked through.

Season 2 lb ricotta with salt and pepper and mix in one egg.

Preheat the oven to 375; oil a 9x13 inch baking dish lightly with olive oil.

Spread a little sauce in the dish. Layer noodles (overlapping slightly), a quarter of the ricotta, about a cup of the meatball sauce, mozzarella and a grating of parm; repeat for four layers, finishing with lots of mozzarella and parm. Keep extra sauce on the side so the lasagna is not swimming.

Bake at 375 about 45 minutes; if the top browns too fast, cover the first 15 minutes or tent it toward the end.

Let cool about an hour before cutting so it sets; better made a day ahead and reheated.

Serve with a little more sauce, more parm and basil.