Northern-style pork and cabbage dumplings with hand-rolled wrappers

A good dumpling wrapper wants three things: bite, called tanya or QQ, almost like a nice pasta; some body, since this is not a gossamer thin wonton and the starch is part of the experience; and freshness, because a wrapper that sits and is dusted with flour separates from the filling.

Northern Chinese flour is high in protein and finely milled, so an Italian 00 is the closest substitute; Bob's Red Mill AP works with hydration tinkering and needs the autolyse step.

Add the salt to the flour and drizzle the water in slowly, mixing patiently until scraggly bits form, called cui zi.

Press it all into a ball and rest 20 minutes.

Put the Sichuan peppercorns and smashed ginger in a bowl and fill with about two thirds of a cup of hot boiled water.

Steep about 30 minutes, then once the water is no longer hot, strain out the aromatics and chill.

Mince the Napa cabbage, toss with the half tablespoon of salt in a big bowl and mix well.

Let it sit 10 to 15 minutes, then squeeze out the excess moisture and finish in a cloth or cheesecloth, wringing out every last reasonable drop.

Knead the rested dough 10 to 15 minutes for a strong dough, or use a stand mixer on speed three. With Bob's Red Mill it stays pockmarked rather than smooth, which is fine as long as it is strong and uniform.

Cover and rest another 15 minutes.

Mix the ground pork with a teaspoon each of salt, five spice powder, chicken bouillon powder, cornstarch, soy sauce and liaojiu.

Drizzle in the Sichuan peppercorn water slowly, stirring constantly for at least 3 to 5 minutes, until the filling has a springy consistency and feels a bit sticky.

Slice the dough into four logs, cut each into about 12 even pieces of 9 to 10 grams, flip each onto its cut side, press flat with the palm and dust with flour.

Roll each wrapper from the centre out to the edge, twisting slightly, about sixteen times, so the middle stays slightly thicker, to about two and a half inches across.

Only now mix the pork and the purged cabbage together, so the cabbage releases no more water, and add the oil and the toasted sesame.

Put about 10 grams of filling in the centre of a wrapper, pull the sides up like a taco, pinch together, seal all the way round and press the shape in with the thumbs.

Boil in a pot of rapidly bubbling water in batches. Cover, and once it returns to a boil add about half a cup of cool water; uncovered, let it come back to a boil and add another half cup or so. Lift them out at the final boil.