Northern Thai laab (laab kua)

Toast the cumin alone over medium heat a few minutes, stirring, until aromatic, slightly darker and starting to pop; remove.

Toast the remaining whole spices together over medium-high heat, stirring, until the coriander and fennel seeds darken and pop; remove.

Grind the spices fine in a spice grinder. Toast and grind the dry chilies separately so the heat can be adjusted.

In a mixing bowl combine the spice mix, chili flakes to taste, some water and fish sauce.

Pour over the ground pork and knead the spices thoroughly into the meat by hand.

Optionally mix in chopped liver.

Fried garlic: heat oil in a small pot with one piece of garlic as a tester; when it bubbles add the rest and fry on low, stirring, until golden but not brown, about 5 minutes. Drain through a metal sieve and keep the garlic oil.

Heat a spoonful or two of garlic oil over medium; cook the shallots, lemongrass and galangal until just a little brown.

Add the pork and cook until done, breaking up every lump with the spatula so it is very fine.

Turn off the heat; leave a little liquid. If it is swimming, cook on high heat to reduce.

Stir in cilantro, Vietnamese coriander and green onions; not the mint, which blackens in the heat.

Top with mint leaves, the fried garlic and fried shallots; serve with extra herbs, cabbage and sticky rice.