Northwestern hand-cut noodles

Drizzle the water into the flour and salt bit by bit, stirring and aiming at the dry bits, until shaggy.

Knead by hand ten minutes, or on speed two in a stand mixer for the same time, until smooth.

Cover and rest half an hour. The knife cut dough is combined, kneaded and rested the same way at the lower hydration.

For noodle sheets, press down and roll out to about two millimetres, slice into two inch ribbons, line a few up and cut them at an angle into diamonds.

Drop the sheets into boiling water.

For cat ears, roll out to three or four millimetres, slice into inch and a half ribbons, flour them and cut into inch and a half squares.

Shape each square by pushing down and out with the thumb to curl it, or place it on a grooved board or sushi mat and twist down and away for the grooves.

For knife cut noodles, hold the pian dao parallel to the dough near the bottom and slice with a quick up and down motion straight into the pot, moving quickly.

Tear the last of the dough into little pieces and cook about three minutes, or until just past al dente.