Old fashioned pumpkin butter

In a saucepan combine two cans of pumpkin puree, a little white sugar, a quarter cup of maple syrup, cinnamon, ground ginger, freshly grated nutmeg, a little ground clove, a pinch of salt, one shake of cayenne, some apple juice or cider and a splash of apple cider vinegar.

Whisk thoroughly; the mixture starts thin and liquidy.

Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, then cook until reduced by about half and as thick as wanted.

Once it bubbles hard, drop the heat to medium-low; a deeper pot and a splatter guard keep the molten splatters away. Lift the guard and stir slowly and occasionally, with an oven mitt if wanted.

Cook over medium-low, stirring occasionally, until very thick, darker, and holding sharp lines, about 45 minutes depending.

Take off the heat and cool exactly 10 minutes, then whisk in a little cold unsalted butter until it disappears.

Transfer to an airtight container and smooth the top with a spoon; cool, seal, and refrigerate until thoroughly chilled, preferably overnight. Judge the taste cold.

Serve spread on buttered toast.