Onigiri with miso and yuzu kosho tuna salad

Wash and polish the rice by hand in water, like kneading bread, to remove milling flour, then rinse several times until the water runs clear; unwashed rice cooks gloopy.

Cook with about a cup and a third of water per cup of rice, or as the bag directs.

Mix canned tuna with Japanese mayo and miso using chopsticks; add yuzu kosho a little at a time and taste, since you can add but not take away.

While the rice is still quite warm, mix in furikake seasoning; warm rice sticks together.

Lay rice on plastic wrap, put about a tablespoon of filling (or one whole umeboshi) in the middle; too much filling stops the rice sticking.

Lift the corners of the wrap to bring the rice over the filling and pack lightly.

For the classic triangle, cup one hand into a 'mountain', press it into the top, rotate and press again to make three peaks, repeating a few times.

Wrap with nori cut in thirds or halves, or a square corner up, or a long strip like a shawl; for packing, carry the nori separately so it does not go soggy and wrap just before eating.

Store wrapped in plastic wrap in the lunch box and eat at room temperature, or freeze and reheat in the microwave.