Onion pakoras

Halve the onions lengthwise, remove the root end, and slice lengthwise or crosswise to a medium thickness: too thin burns, too thick goes soggy.

Transfer to a bowl and loosen the slices; add nigella seeds, chopped coriander and green chillies.

Add the salt and rub it well into the onions until they release water.

Add the rice flour and the gram flour and mix; add the chilli powder and baking soda.

Add more gram flour a tablespoon at a time, only enough to give each strand a light coating and form one sticky mass; too much makes them dense.

Heat the oil while mixing so frying can start at once; it should not be smoking hot. Test with a skewer or chopstick (gentle, steady bubbles) or a strand of onion.

By deep-fry thermometer, 350 to 360F is the right oil temperature.

Drop in small portions without shaping, by hand or with two teaspoons, without crowding; a high-sided wok keeps the oil from bubbling over.

Fry on medium-low; flip when golden brown creeps up the sides; raise the heat if the oil drops below 350F.

Remove at golden, not chocolate brown, which tastes bitter; the colour deepens off the heat. Drain on a strainer.

Bring the oil back to temperature and fry the rest.

Strain and keep the onion-flavoured oil for cooking. Serve immediately.