Osso buco (Julia Child's, from The French Chef Cookbook)

Cut the carrots into half moons and chop the onion.

Drop the tomatoes in boiling water for 10 seconds, cut out the stem, peel, cut crosswise, squeeze out juice and seeds, and chop the pulp roughly.

Wash and peel the lemon and orange; cut the lemon peel thin.

Simmer the peel in water for 10 minutes and drain, to remove the bitterness.

Roll the basil and cut chiffonade; crush the garlic cloves.

Dry the shanks, season both sides with salt and pepper, dredge in flour and shake off the excess.

Heat olive oil over medium-high almost to smoking and brown the veal without crowding the pan.

In the braising dish, cook the sliced onion and carrots in 2 tablespoons oil, covered, over moderately high heat 5 to 6 minutes, stirring, until tender.

Make room and set the browned shanks on the vegetables.

Pour the vermouth into the browning pan over high heat and deglaze, scraping up the fond with a wooden spoon.

Pour the wine over the meat and add the 2 cups veal stock, to come about halfway up the meat; add the tomatoes.

Preheat the oven to 325F. Stir in the crushed garlic, basil and zest and bring to a simmer.

Cover and braise in the oven an hour and a quarter, checking that it keeps a simmer.

Remove the meat gently, tilt the dish, remove the fat and skim the scum; boil the liquid down to about 2 cups and keep warm; season.

Cut the string off the meat and return it to the dish with the sauce.