Oven-fried Buffalo wings

Pat air-chilled chicken wings dry with paper towels.

Toss in a bowl with a teaspoon of kosher salt per pound, two teaspoons of cornstarch and baking powder.

Arrange on a wire rack set in a tray and refrigerate uncovered on the bottom shelf overnight, no longer, so the skin dries without turning leathery.

Toss the dried wings with a couple tablespoons of neutral oil; return to the rack skin side up, stretching the skin over the meat.

Cook in a 450F oven, convection if available, about 20 minutes.

Melt four tablespoons of butter in a skillet over medium-low with three cloves of garlic, sweating the garlic without browning to mellow it and infuse the butter.

Stir in about four tablespoons of Frank's hot sauce.

Flip the wings and return to the oven 15 to 30 minutes, checking after 15, until crisp all over.

Toss the wings thoroughly in the sauce and plate with celery and blue cheese.