Oven-roasted crispy pork belly (moo krob) with dipping sauce

Buy a center cut of pork belly with even, straight layers of fat and meat; trim off uneven ends and any missing skin, keeping trimmings for stews.

Poke as many holes as possible in the skin with a needle meat tenderizer, without going deep enough to reach the meat.

Optionally score through the skin into strips about one inch wide so it can be cut after cooking.

Flip the pork; trim any uneven fat from the meat side and season the meat side with five spice powder and a touch of white pepper, keeping spice off the skin.

Flip skin side up and salt the skin thoroughly but not heavily; let sit 20 minutes so moisture comes out.

Dab dry with a paper towel, brush off large salt grains, and refrigerate uncovered for 24 hours.

Roast in a 350 degree oven about 50 to 60 minutes, to an internal temperature of at least 145F.

For the dipping sauce, mix fish sauce with about equal parts lime juice, plenty of dried roasted chili flakes and a little sugar; let dissolve.

Toast sticky rice in a dry saute pan until golden brown, pound it to a powder in a mortar and pestle, and add to the sauce; finish with chopped green onions or cilantro.

Check the pork reads between 145 and 155F; dab off any fat pooled on the skin.

Switch the oven to broil and set the rack so the pork is at least 10 inches from the element; broil about 20 minutes, watching closely and tenting any spot that browns too fast with foil, until puffed and crisp.

Rest at least 15 minutes before cutting.

Cut skin side up along the scored lines; cook longer to 165F if well-done pork is wanted. Serve with the dipping sauce, dipping the meat side.