Pa tong go (Thai-style Chinese doughnuts)

Sift the cornstarch into the all-purpose flour and whisk well so it is evenly distributed.

Dissolve the sugar and fine salt in the water.

Stir the ammonium carbonate into the water until dissolved, holding it away from the face; add the oil.

Pour the liquid into the flour and mix by hand just until all the flour is in; do not knead and do not use a machine.

Cover and rest about three hours (two to two and a half also works) until smooth inside; it can sit longer.

Heat the frying oil to 375; it can go down to 360 but should not dip to 350.

Turn the sticky dough onto a thoroughly floured board, dust the top and pat into a rectangle about a quarter inch thick with straight sides; do not knead.

Cut into strips about two to three inches wide; keep the others under a moist towel and work one at a time.

Trim off the ends and cut each strip into pieces about an inch wide.

Brush a line of water on every other piece with a chopstick, lay a dry piece on top and press gently so they stick.

Brush or blow off excess flour so it does not foul the oil.

Stretch each piece to about double its length just before dropping it into the oil.

Fry, flipping often, at least five to six minutes at 375 until golden and the bubbling subsides, so the ammonia cooks off; add time if the oil drops.

Drain on paper towel; check there is no ammonia smell before eating.

Serve with sweetened condensed milk, pandan coconut custard or fresh soy milk for dipping.