Pad cha pla (fish and herb stir-fry)

Cut the fish into large-ish cubes and marinate in half a tablespoon of fish sauce while prepping the rest.

Pound garlic, chopped cilantro roots, Thai chilies to taste, white peppercorns and cut spur chilies into a paste with no big chunks but some rough texture; set aside.

Heat a little oil in a wok or large saute pan, not too hot, and fry the paste until aromatic and the garlic starts to brown.

Add the fish to a hot pan and toss quickly before it starts to cook and crumble.

Season with the remaining fish sauce, some sugar and a little water; add water as needed to cool the pan and control the sauce.

Add the finger root and young peppercorns, toss once more while the fish is sturdy, then let it cook gently until the fish starts to flake.

Variation: dredge the fish lightly in flour and deep fry until golden, crispy and firm before stir-frying, so it can be tossed without falling apart.

Add Thai basil, give one quick final toss and plate.

For more sauce add more water or stock and more fish sauce and sugar to make up for the dilution; serve over rice or quinoa.