Pad phet gai (chicken red curry stir-fry)

Toss the sliced chicken thigh with half a teaspoon of fish sauce and leave to marinate while the vegetables are cut.

Snap the blunt end off each sugar snap pea and pull down to remove the string; cut in half on a sharp bias.

Combine the sugar snap peas, kaffir lime leaves, krachai and young peppercorns in one bowl.

Put a little oil and the curry paste in the pan over medium heat, since the paste burns easily, and mix.

As it sizzles, add the first measure of coconut milk and the sugar; reduce until thick and the oil seeps out at the edges.

Add the chicken and stir until the pieces separate and the outside starts to cook.

Add the second measure of coconut milk, using water as needed to control the amount of sauce, and cook until the chicken is 80% done.

Add the bowl of herbs and peas and toss until the chicken is done and the peas are al dente.

Lower the heat, toss in the tomatoes briefly, turn off the heat and toss in plenty of Thai basil until wilted; taste for fish sauce.

Serve with rice; clean the plate edges and garnish with Thai basil.