Pad Thai

Soak the Thai rice noodles in room temperature water to cover for one hour.

Alternative: boil supermarket rice noodles four minutes and put them into the wok immediately while hot; if they cool they set into a gummy mess.

Drain the soaked noodles through a strainer and cut them shorter with scissors. They should be bendy, not sticky.

Cut the large 8 to 12 count shrimp in half.

Rough chop the shallots into big chunks so they do not burn, and mince the garlic.

Chop the peanuts and sift out the peanut dust through a fine mesh strainer.

Chop the sweet radish.

Stir the tamarind concentrate, chopped palm sugar and fish sauce together. The sugar need not dissolve.

Variation: with Indian tamarind paste, halve the amount used and add 15 grams more sugar.

Alternative: use a large nonstick pan at medium high, holding it around 450F.

Heat the 12 inch wok over high, add oil, add the shrimp with a strong pinch of salt and stir fry about two minutes, keeping them moving, to 85 percent cooked; remove to a bowl.

Reheat the wok, add oil, add the eggs; once the whites set, break the yolks and scramble, then move them to the shrimp bowl.

Add oil and stir fry the extra firm tofu about two minutes, until golden brown on all four sides.

Add the shallots, garlic, preserved radish and chili flakes and fry about 30 seconds, stirring constantly so the garlic does not burn.

Add the soaked noodles and the sauce; stir and toss to finish cooking the noodles.

Add about a quarter cup of water and toss until the noodles are soft and springy and the sauce has reduced and gone shiny.

Over medium heat return the shrimp and eggs and toss gently so the noodles do not rip.

Add the bean sprouts, scallion tops and half the peanuts; stir and fold about 30 seconds until wilted in.

Plate and top with the reserved chopped peanuts and a long squeeze of lime.