Pad Thai woon sen with shrimp tomalley and sriracha

Variation 1: add about a tablespoon of jarred shrimp tomalley (or tomalley squeezed from shrimp heads) to the basic pad thai sauce for color, umami and fat.

Variation 2: use about a tablespoon less tamarind and make up the difference with Thai sriracha; with rooster sauce, use a little less.

Variation 3: soak woon sen glass noodles in water about 15 minutes until soft, cut once or twice, and drain; use 80 grams in place of the rice noodles.

Make the sauce: palm sugar dissolved in water, fish sauce, reduced tamarind, sriracha and the shrimp tomalley.

Cook the shrimp and set aside; in the same pan cook garlic, shallots, dried shrimp, sweet preserved radish, chili flakes and pressed tofu.

Add the woon sen, a quarter cup of water, then the sauce; toss until the noodles absorb the sauce. If still too chewy, add a little more water.

Push the noodles to one side, add the eggs, scramble slightly and let them set; put the noodles on top, let the eggs cook, flip and break them up.

Add bean sprouts, garlic chives and half the peanuts and mix.

Serve with extra peanuts, extra chiles and lime.