Pan-fried vegetable ravioli

Put two eggs in a bowl with a small glug of olive oil.

Mix in as much flour as the eggs will take with an implement, then knead by hand until it takes no more; a slightly sticky dough is fine.

Cover and rest the dough 20 or 30 minutes.

Trim the root ends, roll the garlic cloves between the hands to loosen the skins and peel them whole; peel the shallot with a shallow cut.

Grate the zucchini, carrot and shallot, and the garlic on the small holes.

Cook the grated vegetables gently in a little olive oil, stirring, five minutes at most, without browning.

Heat off; season with a pinch of salt and a few grinds of pepper, stir and taste.

Roll the dough into one big thin sheet on the floured counter, rolling and turning.

Punch out rounds with an upside-down pint glass, pressing and twisting; reroll the trimmings and cut more to an even number, 24 rounds.

Put a ball of filling on half the rounds, wet the edges with water, seal on the lids and peel each ravioli off the counter at once.

Variation: to freeze, lay unboiled ravioli on trays in a single layer, freeze overnight, then bag; boil from frozen.

Optionally re-punch with the pint glass to clean up the edges.

Boil in well-salted water a few at a time, about three minutes, until puffed, lighter and floating; two to four minutes all work.

Drain thoroughly.

Melt butter in a wide pan over moderate heat, lay in one portion of 5 or 6 ravioli, keeping them moving so they do not stick; brown lightly, about a minute, then flip.

At the last minute fry some fresh parsley or sage leaves in the pan.

Heat off; deglaze with a splash of white wine, stock or reserved pasta water.

When the bubbling has nearly stopped, melt in a little more butter to form an emulsified sauce; taste for salt if the butter was unsalted.