Pan pizza browned on the stovetop and finished under the broiler, with gremolata

Combine flour, salt, sugar, dry yeast, olive oil and optional garlic powder with the milk; add more milk if the dough is too dry. Keep it wet and sticky.

Knead between the palms until smooth and elastic enough to stretch a thin sheet without tearing; form a ball.

Return to the bowl, cover and rise until doubled, 1 to 2 hours (or ferment slowly in the fridge for a few days).

Put a dab of olive oil in a 10-inch non-stick pan with a pinch each of dried oregano, basil, chili flakes and a tiny pinch of salt; coat the pan.

Press the dough ball into the pan with the fingertips to an even thickness, a little past the edge since it contracts. Rub a thin layer of oil on top and let rise again in the pan at least half an hour.

Sauce: stir together a third of a cup of canned crushed tomatoes, marjoram, oregano, basil, a tiny pinch of sugar, chili flakes, black pepper and a dab of olive oil.

Grate 5 to 6 ounces of low-moisture part-skim mozzarella from a block.

Gremolata: chop a tiny clove of garlic, a couple of shavings of lemon zest and a small bunch of parsley together.

Heat the pan on medium on the stovetop while the broiler heats to maximum with a rack close to it. Cook until the bottom is browned to taste, just starting to burn, checking with a soft spatula and shaking or rotating the pan.

Off the heat, spread the sauce edge to edge, dust with parmesan, and spread mozzarella edge to edge.

Broil with the oven door closed until the cheese is browned to taste, about two minutes.

Sprinkle with gremolata. Cool in the pan a few minutes until set, then slide out onto a cooling rack; the sooner it comes out the crispier the bottom.

If the bottom goes soggy, refry it in the pan a few minutes until it sizzles again.