Pan-roasted salmon with Norwegian butter sauce

Squeeze the lemons into a saucepan and reduce on medium until almost but not quite gone, without burning.

Add the cream, raise to medium-high and reduce by about half, until it coats the back of a spoon, about 5 or 6 minutes.

Turn to low and whisk in the cold butter two or three pieces at a time, adding more as each emulsifies; going too fast can break the sauce.

Season with salt and cayenne, stir in the chopped parsley, taste, and keep warm at the back of the stove.

Season the salmon with salt, cayenne and black pepper and cook in butter over medium to medium-high, seasoning the other side and flipping carefully (tongs tear it); hold a thinner fillet in a warm oven.

Judge doneness by feel: mushy is undercooked, very hard is overcooked, springing back is right.

Plate, ladle over plenty of sauce and finish with a pinch of parsley.