Pan-seared pork chops with apple pan sauce

Season the pork chops with salt and pepper; seasoning a day ahead and refrigerating overnight keeps them juicier and seasons more evenly.

Preheat the skillet over very high heat and add just enough oil to coat; it shimmers around 350 degrees and lightly smokes around 425 to 450, which is hot enough.

Add the chops with a sizzle and sear, flipping as often as wanted until browned; turn the heat down a touch if they brown too fast.

Core the apples and slice by pulling the knife through rather than rock-chopping so the slices do not stick, then cut crosswise into small pieces.

Chop the shallot and gather thyme, maple syrup, apple cider and whole grain mustard for the sauce.

For the last moments, add the shallot ends, thyme, smashed garlic and butter, tilt the pan and baste the chops.

Pull at about 120 degrees internal, rising to about 130 for rare to medium-rare (he aims for 125 rising to 135); rest on a rack and pour the pan drippings over.

Return the pan to moderate heat, soften the shallots gently, add the apples and a little butter, letting their liquid dissolve the browned bits.

When the apples soften, add a dash of cider, a little whole grain mustard and a little maple syrup.

Add a little lemon juice and fresh thyme at the end, then finish with a knob of butter.

Plate a chop with the sauce and a thyme sprig for garnish.