Pao de queijo stuffed with grilled picanha and chimichurri

Trim the silver skin from the underside of the picanha, pulling it tight and running the knife at a slight angle; it does not render. Leave the fat cap on.

Cut a steak off the picanha along the grain, about two fingers wide, so it can be sliced against the grain once cooked.

Coat the steak well with Maldon salt and leave it.

Variation: salt the night before and leave uncovered in the fridge to dry brine.

Chimichurri: blitz the garlic first, then add curly parsley, red wine vinegar, the juice of a lemon, oregano, cumin and red pepper flakes; whiz, adding a little olive oil.

Batter: blitz milk, olive oil, a pinch of salt and an egg; add tapioca starch and whiz again, knocking down any stuck starch.

Add about a cup and a quarter of cheese (smoked gouda, sharp cheddar) plus some parm, then green onion, a little garlic and a little smoked paprika; mix.

Fill a 24-cup mini muffin tin three-quarters full and top each with a little more cheese.

Bake at 400 for 20 minutes.

Meanwhile grill the steak, turning often, about a minute a side, standing it on the fat cap to render; pull at 'a hundred and a quarter' on an instant read thermometer, expecting 5 to 6 degrees more while it rests, for medium rare.

Slice the steak against the grain.

Open the cheese breads, add chimichurri and a couple of small pieces of steak.

Variation: cook the steak a day ahead and bring it to room temperature; the biscuits and chimichurri can be made three days ahead.