Pappardelle with mushroom and bean bolognese

Heat a big pan, add olive oil, and when it is hot add the small-cut mushrooms; let their moisture evaporate and brown them.

Add pork and a little veal, break up and brown; pour off excess fat if there is a lot, and keep scraping the browned bits off the bottom so they do not burn.

Add onions, carrots, celery and a couple of smashed garlic cloves; cook about three or four minutes until the onions are translucent and the vegetables soft.

Add tomato paste and cook until it darkens to a brick, brownish red to take out the raw flavour.

Deglaze with red wine before anything burns, scraping up the fond.

Add a big sprig of rosemary on the stem, a couple of bay leaves, a little salt, and pepper or a few pepper flakes.

Add veal or beef stock and keep cooking.

Add kidney beans; their starch tightens the liquid. Cook to a sauce-like consistency.

Stir in a little creme fraiche (or heavy cream) to round out the flavours. If time allows, take off the heat and let sit about an hour.

Taste and stir in a little Parmesan for savoury flavour; remove the rosemary.

Warm the pasta in boiling salted water; toss with half the sauce, make a nest, add more sauce, and top with grated Parmesan and parsley.