Parmesan chive buttermilk biscuits

Cube three-quarters of a cup of European-style butter and freeze 10 minutes.

Grate one cup of Parmesan.

In a big bowl whisk 530 g all-purpose flour, 1 tbsp granulated sugar, 1 tbsp baking powder, 1.5 tsp kosher salt, 1 tsp white pepper and 1/4 tsp baking soda; whisk in the Parmesan.

Add the cold butter in pieces and smush it in by hand, or cut it in with a knife, forks or pastry cutter, to butter plates between pea and almond size, until crumbly.

Mix in a quarter cup of minced chives.

Fold in one and a half cups of ice cold buttermilk with a spatula until a messy wet batter that is not fully cohesive.

Turn out onto the counter and pat into a one-inch-thick square.

With a bench scraper lift and fold like a book, cut in half and stack; pat back to one inch and repeat three more times, with the lightest sprinkle of flour if sticky.

Cut with a floured three- to three-and-a-half-inch round cutter without pressing the sides; gently re-pat the scraps, keeping the layers, and cut again.

Chill at least 10 minutes in the freezer or half an hour in the fridge, or freeze and bake from frozen. Preheat the oven to 425F.

Brush the tops with melted butter, leaving the sides clean so they rise; optionally sprinkle with flaked sea salt.

Bake at 425F for 18 to 20 minutes until golden and puffed; brush with more melted butter.