Pasta al limone

Peel and thinly slice the garlic; chop the parsley; roll the lemon firmly on the counter so it juices easily.

Beat the eggs and a pinch of kosher salt into a mound of flour until a slurry forms, then toss together into a ball of dough.

Knead continuously 7 to 10 minutes until it springs back when poked.

Wrap in plastic wrap and rest at room temperature 30 minutes.

Flour the dough and the surface generously and roll by hand to about 1 mm thick; flour and fold accordion-style without overlapping folds.

Cut into wide tagliatelle; unfold each, dust with flour and twist into nests.

Alternatively use rough, bronze-die boxed pasta, which releases more starch.

Cook the pasta in just enough water to cover, stirring at first so it does not stick; dried pasta comes out a minute or two shy of its time, fresh pasta boils no more than 30 seconds.

Into a high-walled saute pan put olive oil, the garlic, chili flakes, lemon zest and black pepper while the oil is still cold; cook 3 to 5 minutes until the garlic is lightly blonde, not browned.

Add the very al dente pasta and toss, or shake the pan and move the pasta with tongs.

Over medium-low heat add lemon juice, a glug of extra virgin olive oil, the parsley and Parmesan; stir, then add hot pasta water a splash at a time, stirring vigorously, until the sauce emulsifies. Too thick, add water; too thin, add cheese; leave it a little thin as it thickens on cooling. One to two minutes.

Twist up and serve, garnished with grated Parmigiano Reggiano, parsley and lemon zest.

Variation (Americanized): add a pat of butter to the garlic and a half cup of heavy cream; add parsley, cheese and lemon juice and cook over medium to medium-low 1 to 3 minutes until thick and glossy, thinning with pasta water; season generously with kosher salt.

Variation (egg): whisk one egg, one yolk, a tablespoon of cream and Parmesan into a slurry; after the lemon and pasta water, add it off the heat so the egg does not scramble, keep it moving and thin with pasta water; season with kosher salt and pepper.