Pasta all'Amatriciana

Trim any dark tough skin off the guanciale and scrape off any remnants of the pepper and rosemary cure so they do not burn.

Cut into eighth-inch slices, stack, and cut across into eighth-inch strips (lardons).

Put the guanciale into olive oil in a pan over medium heat and cook until fully rendered and well browned; it turns translucent then browns very quickly.

When browned but not burning, turn off the heat and lift the guanciale out to a bowl with a slotted spoon, leaving all the fat in the pan. Do not drain the fat.

Turn the heat to medium-high, add a small splash of white wine (optional) and cook about a minute to cook out the alcohol.

Stir in the tomato sauce and a few grinds of black pepper and bring to a simmer on medium-high.

Meanwhile cook the rigatoni in well salted water, undercooking it by at least a minute.

When the pasta is a minute to a minute and a half from done, transfer it with a hand strainer into the sauce, letting some of its water come with it.

Stir and add the cooked guanciale back, reserving a little for the top if wanted. Add a pinch of salt as needed.

Cook, stirring, a couple of minutes until the pasta absorbs the sauce and finishes cooking and the sauce reduces and thickens; add a splash of pasta water if it gets too thick.

Turn off the heat and stir in the grated Pecorino in a couple of additions so it does not clump; never cook the cheese or it separates. Taste for seasoning.

Plate small portions and top with more Pecorino and the reserved crispy guanciale.