Pasta alla gricia

Put the pancetta in a skillet with a little water over moderately low heat; as the water evaporates the fat renders and coats the pan so the pancetta crisps without sticking.

Start a pot of water, seasoned less heavily than usual since much of it goes into the sauce; add the rigatoni without waiting for a boil.

Grind black pepper in a mortar and pestle; take some Pecorino Romano.

Toss the pancetta occasionally and render slowly; the browning on the pan is kept for deglazing.

Cook the pasta about 9 or 10 minutes, against a box time of 12, until just shy of al dente.

When the pancetta is browned and crisp, remove some to save for another use.

Add a little starchy pasta water to the pancetta and deglaze the pan to start the sauce.

Transfer the pasta to the skillet and toss; add about half an ounce of cheese and more pasta water, keeping it on the heat to finish cooking the pasta.

Add the rest of the cheese and the black pepper, with more pasta water, tossing.

Variation: bloom the black pepper in the rendered fat until it starts to foam before adding pasta water, then add a little fresh pepper at the end.

Let the sauce reduce until creamy; if it starts to break, add a splash more pasta water, heat and agitate constantly.

Transfer to a bowl and finish with more black pepper and pecorino.