Pasta alla gricia

Cut the guanciale into slices, then across into lardons.

Start the guanciale in a 12-inch skillet with a little water; as the water simmers off the fat renders, then it fries in its own fat.

Turn the heat to medium and render gently, stirring now and then, until fully rendered, brown and crisp.

Add a tiny splash of water to cool the pan and deglaze the brown bits; set aside.

Boil the pasta in just enough water to cover by a couple inches, very lightly seasoned with salt and MSG, until about two minutes shy of al dente (package time minus a couple of minutes).

Reserve a couple cups of the pasta water and drain.

Bloom about a teaspoon of coarsely ground black pepper in the pork fat.

Add the pasta and a ladle or two of pasta water and cook over high heat, adding splashes as it reduces, until the sauce emulsifies just as the rigatoni is cooked, 4 or 5 minutes; add water if greasy, reduce if watery.

Off the heat, add about three quarters of the cheese with vigorous stirring, tossing and shaking, loosening with a splash of pasta water if it clumps; taste for salt.

Return most of the guanciale, plate, and top with the remaining cheese, guanciale and a sprinkle of black pepper.