Pasta fritters (frittatine di maccheroni)

Break the bucatini into quarters or thirds.

Melt the butter.

Boil the pasta until fully cooked through, past al dente.

Add an equal amount of flour to the melted butter and cook a solid 30 seconds, until no raw white flour remains.

Whisk in the milk and cook until thickened, without walking away so the bottom does not scorch.

Off the heat, season with plenty of salt and black pepper; set aside to cool slightly.

Heat olive oil with a clove of garlic in a skillet until shimmering; add the frozen peas before the oil is too hot, then raise the heat and saute a couple of minutes; set aside.

Drain the pasta and shock it under cold water to stop the cooking.

Mix the pasta with the bechamel and the peas, garlic removed, then add the cheese and ham, and more pepper if wanted.

Press the mixture evenly into a nine by nine inch pan lined with parchment, sides greased, using a flat spatula and a cut sheet of parchment on top.

Refrigerate until completely set, at least six hours, ideally overnight, up to 24 hours.

Mix flour and water into a thin, pancake-like pastella batter.

Cut rounds of about three inches with a biscuit cutter; press the scraps together and mold them into patties.

Dip each round in the pastella, then coat in slightly salted plain breadcrumbs; let sit a few minutes so the coating adheres.

Fry about four at a time in flavorless oil that is not too hot, about three minutes per side over medium heat, until golden brown.

Drain on a wire rack set over a baking sheet rather than paper towel, which can make them soggy.