Pastitsio roll-ups

Cook a finely chopped onion in a couple tablespoons of olive oil in a saucepan until soft and golden, about 10 minutes.

Add about five grated garlic cloves and warm until fragrant, then add 1 lb ground beef.

Season with salt and pepper and raise the heat to medium-high until the pinkness is gone.

Add about 1/4 tsp ground cinnamon, a bay leaf and a 15 oz can of crushed tomatoes, with more salt and pepper if wanted; rinse the can with a little water and add it.

Cook about 20 minutes until thick, not runny, so it stays on the noodles.

Off the heat, stir in 1 tsp dried oregano and a couple tablespoons of finely chopped parsley.

Bechamel: melt 4 oz unsalted butter, add 3/4 cup flour and cook a few minutes until toasted.

Add 4 cups whole milk, a little salt, black pepper and 1/4 tsp ground nutmeg; whisk and cook to a boil, when it thickens quickly. Take off the heat.

Whisk two eggs and one yolk in a pitcher; slowly add some of the hot milk mixture to temper them, then whisk it back into the pot with a handful of kefalotiri or Parmesan.

Bring a big pot of water to a boil, salt generously and cook the lasagna noodles per the package, 10 to 11 minutes, to al dente.

Drain in the sink, then refill the pot with lots of cold water over the noodles so they do not stick together and tear.

Spread a thin layer of bechamel in a 9 by 13 inch baking pan.

Pat the noodles dry on paper towels four or five at a time. Sprinkle each with plenty of cheese, spread with meat sauce, roll up and place in the pan; tuck any leftover sauce between the rolls.

Pour the bechamel over the rolls and sprinkle with more cheese.

Cover with crumpled, slightly wet parchment so the foil does not touch the noodles, then with aluminum foil.

Bake at 375F covered 30 minutes, uncover and bake 15 more minutes, then broil 4 to 5 minutes until golden.

Garnish with finely chopped parsley and cool a little before serving.

Variation, make ahead: assembled and unbaked rolls keep in the freezer up to three months, wrapped tightly in foil and plastic wrap; bake until warm, bubbly and cooked through.