Patra

Trim the leaves, taking off anything that would get in the way, so they do not break when folded.

Mix the dry ingredients together: chickpea flour, rice flour, turmeric powder, red chili powder, celery seeds, asafoetida and salt.

Heat the canola oil until it is hot, boiling, and pour it into the dry mix; the hot oil cooks the spices and brings them alive. This is the trick that makes a perfect patra.

Mix the oil in properly, then add slowly and work to a tight paste that is spreadable -- the leaves are delicate and must be spread without bruising.

Taste and add whatever is missing, checking for salt.

Lay a leaf upside down and spoon paste onto it.

Spread the paste into every part and every corner: the taste of the whole dish depends on it, and it is the glue that stops the pocket coming apart in the fryer. Do not use much.

Layer paste and leaf, fold into a pocket, trim off the excess to a square and fold again.

Deep-fry the pockets.

After the first fry, cut them to bite size and return them to the fryer to seal the cut sides.

Dress fennel, mint, parsley and cilantro stems with a lemon, olive oil and salt vinaigrette and pile them at the bottom of the plate.

Set the pockets on the greens, spread a little peanut chutney on top and finish with masala peanuts.