Pesto alla Genovese with spaghetti and spring vegetables

Put three cloves of garlic and a little pinch of salt in the mortar.

Add about a quarter cup of pine nuts and pound into a paste.

Add basil a little handful at a time, letting the weight of the pestle work and smearing against the curved sides rather than pounding straight down.

Add about an ounce of Parmesan and work into a fine paste.

Emulsify in olive oil a little at a time with a circular motion, about half a cup in all; taste and add a little salt.

To store, pack into a jar, tap out bubbles, cover with a thin seal of oil and refrigerate; best within a couple of days.

Cook spaghetti to al dente, about seven minutes, adding snap peas and cooked fava beans the last couple of minutes; reserve a cup of pasta water.

In a bowl, add the pesto, a little fresh olive oil and a splash of pasta water to the pasta and toss with a fork and spoon until creamy; do not heat again.