Pho (Vietnamese beef noodle soup)

Put the knuckle bones into boiling water and bring back to the boil to blanch and clean them; do not roast them first, which makes a cloudy broth.

Add the meat, a chuck roast or brisket, trimming or later skimming the fat, leaving only a few 'fish eyes' of fat.

Transfer the blanched bones to the broth pot.

Char the ginger, onions and shallots directly over the flame, only on the surface for a light smoky flavour and a little caramelization, not black, then add to the broth.

Roast star anise, cinnamon, cardamom, fennel, coriander seeds and cloves in a pan over lowered heat until a slight haze rises and they smell; smoke means too hot. Use them all for the one pot, loose or in a spice bag.

Bring the broth to a bubble, never a vigorous boil, skimming the scum continuously; cook about two hours.

Add the roasted spices for the last two hours of cooking only, so their flavours stay distinct.

Add fish sauce for body, a little sugar and a little salt, without fully seasoning yet.

Soak dried rice noodles in water at least 30 minutes, then cook briefly in a pot at a vigorous boil, rinsing well to cook off excess starch, and bang the basket to drain.

Put a few bean sprouts in a preheated big bowl, then the noodles.

Top with the cooked beef, paper-thin sweet onion, green onions and raw beef.

Pour the very hot, clear broth down the side of the bowl, avoiding fat, so it cooks the raw beef; about one portion of noodles to four parts liquid, filled almost to the rim.

Finish with a little black pepper, a squeeze of lime, torn fresh herbs and chili to taste; hoisin and chili sauce are the traditional table additions.