Phyllo cardamom pinwheel cookies

Mix the cardamom and a pinch of salt into the demerara sugar.

Lay one sheet of filo on a large piece of parchment, oriented vertically. Brush lightly with melted butter (mostly coated is enough) and sprinkle about a tablespoon and a half of the spiced sugar from up high.

Lay a second sheet on top, lining up the sides, and butter and sugar it the same way. Keep the other sheets covered.

Roll the two-sheet stack up as tightly as possible into a log, using the parchment to help; cracks and wrinkles are fine.

Make a second stack of two, place the first roll at its base and roll the second stack around it. Repeat with sheets five and six and seven and eight, using the last of the sugar on the final stack.

If the butter starts to harden, warm it briefly in the microwave or a warm spot so it stays liquid without being hot.

Butter the ninth sheet with no sugar and roll the whole log in it to seal.

Wrap loosely in parchment, set on a cutting board, cover with a towel and chill in the freezer about 15 minutes until firm but not frozen solid.

Preheat the oven to 350 with a rack in the center.

Trim the irregular end with a serrated knife, then slice the log with long strokes into cookies about half an inch thick. Press any torn layers back and reshape gently on the baking sheet.

Space the cookies evenly on a parchment-lined baking sheet (they do not spread) and bake until golden brown, about 20 minutes. Check underneath; the bottoms darken first.