Pigs in a blanket in classic puff pastry

Mix the sugar and salt into the all-purpose flour.

Add the milk, water and melted cooled butter and the lemon juice and mix by hand until the liquid is incorporated into a shaggy dough.

Turn out and knead about five minutes, adding a little water if the flour is dry, until the mottled surface smooths out and the dough is supple, soft and firm at once.

Cut an X into the round of dough and open it out into a square, reorienting the gluten network.

Wrap the dough, roll the packet flat and even with the pin, and rest it in the fridge about an hour.

Loosely wrap the two sticks of butter in parchment and beat it lengthwise with the rolling pin until pliable and about three quarters of an inch thick.

Fold the parchment around it like a present into about a seven inch square, turn it folds down, and roll it flat with the pin in both directions until the butter fills the four corners at sharp right angles.

Let the dough and the butter sit at room temperature until their firmness matches.

Roll the dough to the width of the butter block and twice its length, pushing rather than pressing and tugging the corners square.

Set the butter block in the centre of the dough, fold both ends up and over to meet in the middle, and pinch the seam and the edges closed so no butter is exposed.

Flour underneath, rotate 90 degrees so the seam runs vertically, then beat the packet crosswise with the pin to lengthen it.

Roll out to about a quarter to three eighths of an inch thick and trim a narrow strip off to straighten the edge.

Fold in thirds like a letter for the first turn, giving three layers, then turn 90 degrees, wrap and chill 20 minutes.

Roll out again to about three times longer than wide and evenly thin, rolling crosswise if the dough springs back, then fold in thirds for the second turn, giving nine layers.

Chill again, then give a third and final turn.

Rest the dough overnight in the fridge after the turns.

Cut each hot dog into fourths, trimming the ends.

Let the pastry come to room temperature five or ten minutes before rolling so the butter layers do not fracture.

Roll the pastry into a rectangle about a quarter inch thick, keeping it moving on the surface so it does not shrink back after it is unstuck.

Trim the tiniest strip off all four sides to square the pastry and expose the layers at the cut edges.

Variation: bake the trimmed strips of pastry with cinnamon sugar or brushed with garlic butter.

Cut the pastry into a three by four grid, each rectangle long enough to wrap a hot dog piece once with a little overlap.

Brush egg wash along one short side of each rectangle.

Starting at the dry end, roll the pastry around a hot dog piece so it overlaps onto the egg washed edge, press the seam, and set it seam side down on the lined baking sheet, spaced apart.

Brush the formed pieces all over with a thin coat of the remaining egg wash.

Variation: top with sesame seed, poppy seed, everything spice, dehydrated garlic, crushed mustard seed or crushed coriander seed instead of salt and pepper.

Sprinkle lightly with salt and fresh black pepper.

Bake at 400F until the pastry is puffed, golden brown and cooked through.

Stir the Dijon mustard and mayo together half and half with a little squeeze of honey for a dipping sauce.