Pillowy beignets

Whisk the all-purpose flour, whole wheat flour, sugar, baking powder and kosher salt in a bowl.

Weigh 200 g lukewarm water, about 100F, and dissolve the active dry yeast in it until cloudy; add the room-temperature milk and eggs and whisk gently.

Make a well, pour in the liquid and stir with a spatula or bowl scraper until no dry flour remains.

Knead in the bowl with one hand, lifting from the side and pressing to the centre while rotating the bowl, about 10 minutes, until smoother, elastic and sticking more to itself than to the hand; or use a stand mixer with the hook on lowest speed, checking after 5 minutes.

Scrape down the bowl and rise at room temperature about an hour and a half, until bubbly and doubled.

Fill a Dutch oven a third to halfway with oil and heat, starting on medium-low while forming.

Refrigerate from four hours to overnight; use straight from the fridge.

Flour the work surface very generously; pat the cold dough with floured hands into a rough rectangle.

Cut into about two-and-a-half-inch squares, flour again and pull apart so they don't re-stick; cover with a towel and let them proof briefly while the oil comes up.

Bring the oil to about 375F on medium to medium-high.

Drain on a rack over paper towel.

Shake off excess flour and slip the beignets in one at a time, close to the oil, about six to start, raising the heat to hold the temperature in the 360s to 375F; fry about two minutes per batch, turning with a spider.

Coat heavily with powdered sugar right before serving; eat hot.