Pissaladière

Cut both ends off the yellow onions, slice down once and peel, halve, and slice across the fibers so they break down almost to a jam.

Put four or five sliced onions in a big pot with butter melted in olive oil over medium-high heat, add a big pinch of salt and stir to draw out moisture until they soften and slump.

Lower to medium, cover and cook 10 minutes.

Uncover and cook on medium-low, stirring occasionally, until very light golden brown, soft and sweet; on medium with more stirring is quicker.

Add tied fresh thyme, black pepper, optionally two or three anchovy filets, and a couple tablespoons of sherry vinegar; cook stirring about 10 more minutes. Stop lighter than plain caramelized onions, since they darken in the oven. Reserve.

Halve pitted kalamata olives (in place of nicoise).

Drain the anchovies into a bowl, cover with cold water, swish to separate and soak about an hour to leach out salt, changing the water halfway if wanted; drain and dry on paper towels.

Put prepared pizza dough between two sheets of oiled parchment, press down and roll thin and even with a rolling pin, adding no flour.

Transfer to a sheet pan, peel off the top sheet, stretch into shape with the fingers, and dock all over with a fork to prevent big bubbles.

Pre-bake at 450 degrees 10 minutes, until just barely light gold; cool completely on a rack.

Set the crust on lightly oiled parchment on a sheet pan, paint the edge with a little olive oil, and spread a generous layer of onions.

Lay anchovies in diagonal lines one way and then across the other way; space the lines further apart for less salt. Place a halved olive in each opening.

Bake in the upper center of a 450 degree oven about 25 minutes, until the onions and crust edges are browned.

Move to a cooling rack with a spatula and let sit a few minutes; scatter snipped chives, then cut on a cutting board with a pizza wheel into small squares.